Varkala, Kerala: Where the Cliffs Hug the Arabian Sea

If you stand on the edge of the North Cliff in Varkala and look down, you are looking at a geological anomaly. This is the only place in southern Kerala where red laterite cliffs rise abruptly from the ocean. Geologists call it the "Varkala Formation." Travelers call it one of the most dramatic sunsets in India.

For the American traveler, Varkala offers a vibe that is hard to pin down. It is equal parts spiritual sanctuary, backpacker haven, and geological wonder. Think of it as Big Sur meeting Bali, but with more spice and chaos. It is less polished than Kovalam but infinitely more soulful. It attracts the yogis, the writers, and the people who want to stare at the horizon for hours with a cold ginger tea in hand.

The Lay of the Land: North vs. South

Varkala is divided by the cliff. Knowing which side to stay on defines your trip.

• North Cliff (The Bohemian Hub): This is where the action is. A narrow paved path runs along the cliff edge, lined with cafes, Tibetan curio shops, and yoga studios. It is vibrant, social, and busy. If you want to step out of your room and be in the mix, stay here.
• South Cliff (The Quiet Zone): Separated from the North by a dip in the terrain, the South Cliff is residential and serene. It has surf schools and boutique homestays. It is a 20-minute walk to the main action, but you will sleep better here.
• Papanasam Beach: The actual beach lies at the bottom of the cliffs. You have to descend steep steps to get to the sand.

Getting There

Varkala is well-connected and easy to reach.

• By Air: Fly into Trivandrum International Airport (TRV). From there, it is a 1.5-hour taxi ride north.
• By Train: The Varkala Sivagiri railway station is excellent. If you are coming from Kochi (Cochin), the train ride is a beautiful 3-4 hour journey along the coast. It’s cheap (under $5 for AC class) and an experience in itself.

The Spiritual Side: Papanasam

Varkala isn't just for tanning; it is holy ground. The beach is locally called Papanasam, which translates to "Destroyer of Sins."
At the southern end of the beach, you will see priests performing rituals for ancestors. Hindus believe that immersing the ashes of the departed here washes away their sins.
For the Tourist: It is deeply moving to watch, but keep a respectful distance. Do not take photos of funerals or intimate rituals.

Top Experiences

1. Walk the Cliff at Sunset

This is the ritual. The entire town comes out to walk the 2km stretch of the North Cliff as the sun goes down. The cafes light up with lanterns, the smell of grilling fish fills the air, and the sky turns purple. It is magic.

2. Janardanaswamy Temple

A 2,000-year-old Vaishnavite shrine. Non-Hindus cannot enter the inner sanctum, but you are welcome to walk the grounds and admire the Kerala-style architecture. The massive banyan tree in front is a great spot for meditation.

3. Surf Lessons

Varkala is becoming a surf hotspot. The waves near the South Cliff/Black Sand Beach are great for beginners. There are several surf schools run by certified instructors.

4. Paragliding

Due to the updrafts hitting the cliffs, this is a prime spot for paragliding. Taking off from the helipad and floating over the ocean offers a bird's-eye view of the coastline that you cannot get any other way.

The Café Culture

Varkala has some of the best food scenes in Kerala, catering specifically to international tastes.

• The Vibe: Most cafes overlook the ocean. You sit on cushions, not chairs.
• The Food: You will find excellent Espresso, smoothie bowls, wood-fired pizzas, and fresh seafood catch-of-the-day.
• Must Try: Kerala Prawn Curry with rice. The coconut milk used here is usually scraped fresh that morning.

Practical "Know Before You Go" for US Travelers

1. Safety Warning: The Cliff Edge

This is critical. There are very few railings along the cliff edge.
At night, the path is dimly lit. Every year, there are accidents involving tourists stumbling off the edge. Watch your step, don't walk and text, and bring a flashlight if you are walking late at night.

2. The Ocean Currents

The waves at Varkala are stronger than they look. There are significant undercurrents.
Rule: Swim only between the flags where the lifeguards are stationed. If the whistle blows, come out. The lifeguards here are vigilant for a reason.

3. Dress Code

Varkala is chill, but it is still India.
On the Beach: Bikinis and trunks are fine.
On the Cliff Path: It is polite to throw on a sarong or a t-shirt.
At the Temple: Shoulders and knees must be covered.

4. Alcohol

Similar to other parts of Kerala, alcohol licenses are restricted. Only a few upscale hotels have legal bars. Many cliff cafes serve beer "discreetly" (often poured into ceramic mugs). It’s an open secret, but be discreet about it.

When to Visit

• Best Time: December to March. The weather is dry and breezy.
• Summer (April/May): Very hot and humid.
• Monsoon: The beach often disappears under high tide, and the cliffs can be slippery. Not recommended for a beach holiday.

Varkala is a place that traps you. You come for two days and stay for a week. It’s the perfect end to a Kerala trip—a place to simply sit, watch the ocean, and breathe.

For train schedules and official tourism updates, check the Kerala Tourism Varkala Page.